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FOR CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 



Mme. KELLOGG, Inventor and Patentee, 



BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN. 



Instruction Book entered according to Act of Congress, in the year [» by Mme. Kellogg, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 

Persons infringing or copying in any manner the principles giv. n in this system or its appliances, will be prosecuted to the fullest extent 

of the law. A liberal reward will be paid for any information which will lead to the conviction of persons so infringing. 



SYSTEm PATENTED DECEmBEP, 21, 1880. 



DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE TRACING WHEEL, 

PATENTED JULY 18, 1882. 



ADJUSTABLE SQUARE, BIAS RULE, and YARD STICK, 

PATENTED DECEMBER 25, 18S3. 




Dealer in Dressmaker's and Tailor's Supplies and Paris fashions. 

^£96-008047 








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HE cutting and making of garments for gentle- 
men, have, for many years, been regulated by 
exact systems and mathematical laws, while the 
same work for ladies has almost entirely been 
done by charts and patterns, based on the idea 
that the only substantial difference in the bodies of women 
was in the " size." The radical difference between the two 
systems will become apparent on a moment's consideration. 
While the former is scientific, and founded on the adjustment 
of varying dimensions and measurements in one harmonious 
whole, the latter is subject to being constantly thrown " out of 
balance" by the change of a single dimension relatively to 
any or all of the rest. 

The inventor of the French Tailor System, after years 
of practice in dress-cutting by all the old methods, was 
forced to the conclusion that the " tailor's square " was the 
true basis of accurate work in the cutting of garments for 
ladies as well as for gentlemen, and accordingly has perfected 
a system by combining its use with graded scales, by means 
of which a perfect fit is assured at the hands of any intelligent 
dress-maker, and in the most expeditious manner. 

This system of cutting is as much superior to the "chart" 
method of dress-cutting as the work of the artistic tailor is to 
" ready-made " clothing. Indeed, the relation is very much 
the same, while the ratio of importance is vastly greater, inas- 
much as the variation in the female form has a much wider 
range, and the demands of fashion and good taste require a 
better fit in the garments of ladies than in those of gentlemen. 

A dress " well made " means something more than good 
sewing, fine stitching, or elaborate trimming. All these may 
exist, and a misfit will spoil the whole. In fact, no amount of 
good work will atone for this one defect. Hence no dress- 
maker, however perfect her taste and judgment in other re- 
spects, can give complete satisfaction unless her work is based 
on a correct system of cutting ; for herein lies the secret of 
success. 

In introducing the French Tailor System to the public, 
the inventor claims that it meets every demand for simplicity, 
accuracy, economy of time and material, and ease of compre- 
hension. It is adapted to all irregularities of form, and is 
unaffected by any change in fashion. It is therefore a means 
of saving time, labor, and money, — three points which en- 
title it to the careful consideration of all who would be suc- 
cessful in business. Those who have used this system are 
surprised to find in it such a combination of accuracy with 
simplicity, the idea being very prevalent that absolute ac- 
curacy requires a very complicated system of details, which 
is too true of many other systems of cutting ; but in this case, 
accuracy is secured by conforming to scientific principles, 
and these, when rightly applied, are exceedingly simple. 

The correctness of this proposition has been recognized 
by the United States Patent Commissioner, who has granted 
this system, and its application of principles, the full protec- 
tion of the law by Letters Patent, which can be seen at my 
office, bearing the seal of the United States Patent Office. 

In introducing this system, I ask no one to lay aside her 
former method unless satisfied that this is superior, and that 
change will prove a substantial benefit. I will be pleased 



to answer all inquiries, and remove all objections that may 
arise in the minds of any candid investigators with reference 
to this system. 



Treatise on garment- Gating. 

Few who call themselves cutters realize the true mean- 
ing of the word, especially with reference to the cutting and 
fitting of ladies' garments. The degree of tightness or loose- 
ness is no indication of the fit, as a lady may have a dress 
which is very snug, and another which is very loose, and yet 
both may be excellent fits. On the other hand, she may 
have a tight dress which is a misfit in every sense, while 
the same may be true of a loose dress. 

The art of dress-cutting and fitting, therefore, does not 
consist merely in regulating the tightness or looseness of a 
garment, nor even the relative length of waist, shoulder, or 
sleeve ; but in so cutting and combining the different parts 
that when made into a garment it shall conform to the shape 
of the person who is to wear it, whether loosely or otherwise, 
without wrinkles or the distortion of its various parts. That 
this requires talent of no mean order, any observing person 
must be ready to acknowledge, and any system of principles 
that will assist in perfecting such an art will be hailed with 
gladness by those who desire its development and cultivation. 

MEASUREMENTS. 

However perfect a system of cutting may be, its use can 
never produce uniformly successful results unless the cutter 
is uniform in taking measurements. Two cutters using the 
same system in the same establishment, will produce varying 
results if one takes loose measurements and the other draws 
the tape tightly. In this particular, more than any other 
branch of dress-making, the exercise of good judgment plays 
a leading part. The varying dimensions of the human form, 
the hardness or softness of the tissues, the character of the 
material to be used, and the purpose for which the garment is 
to be especially adapted, must all be carefully considered, 
and should enter into the calculations of the one who is to 
apply the tape line, before a figure is put down as the basis of 
the work. Unless this is done, success cannot be expected 
with any system of cutting, however excellent it may be. 

In regard to the claims of many of the so-called tailor 
systems, we will simply remark that any method which does 
not employ the tailor's square and scales cannot properly be 
called a tailor system. A plan of cutting by diagrams and 
pasteboard patterns is not and cannot be a tailor system, at 
least until tailors adopt such a method and throw away 
the square, which they are too wise to undertake in the pres- 
ent advanced state of their art. 

The Kellogg French Tailor System combines the use 
of the tailor's square with the graded scales, and the methods 
of drafting being the result of long study and experience, are 
fully protected by U. S. patents, and cannot be infringed upon 
without violation of law. 

On the following pages we give some of the points of su- 
periority which this system presents to the claim of dress- 
makers, and commend them to your careful attention. 

Yours truly, 

Mme. Kellogg. 





THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Directions for Taking JWcas- 

urement. 




fEASl kl Ml \ i S here given arc for a 
well-proportioned form, and used only 
as a guide for beginners. 

Bus) measurement, 36 inches. 
Chest measurement, 13^ inches. 
Length of waist in back, 16 inches. 
Under arm, 8 inches. 
Length of waist in front, 1 3 ' 4 inches. 
Width of back, 13 inches. 

Length of shoulder, 5 ' _• inches. 
Around the waist, 23J/; inches. 
Skirt measure, 40 inches. 

ARJVI MEASURE. 

From neck to shoulder, $}4 inches. 

From shoulder to elbow, 18^ inches. 

From elbow to wrist, 25^ inches. 

Around the arm between elbow and shoulder, 

iojj inches. 
Around the elbow when bent, 10 inches. 
Around wrist, 8 inches. 

1. To obtain the bust measurement, place 
the tape line around the person close under 
the shoulder blades, and over the largest part 
of the bust. Take a snug but not tight meas- 
urement. Great care should be used in taking 
this measurement. If taken too tight, the 
whole waist will be too tight, if taken too 
loose, the garment will be too loose. 

2. In taking the chest measurement, have 
the lady stand perfectly natural, then measure 
straight across the chest from armpit to arm- 
pit. 

3. To obtain length of front, place tape line 
at point of neck and down to bottom of waist. 





4. To obtain length of waist in the back, place tape line 
at prominent neck bone and to bottom of waist. (This is a 
measure that plays a very important part.) 

5. Take under arm measurement by placing tape directly 
under the arm, bringing it straight to bottom of waist. This 
is one of the most important measures to be taken. If taken 
too long, it will cause the dress to wrinkle under the arm, and 
bring top of darts too high. 

6. To take measurement for width of back, apply the tape 
line in the same manner as for the chest. 

7. To obtain length of shoulder, place tape line on neck 
about the same hight as prominent neck bone, carrying a 
little back from top of shoulder. The length of shoulder can 
make or mar the beauty of a dress. 

8. Take the waist measurement next to corset, around the 
smallest part of the waist. Take this measurement rather tight. 

9. To obtain size of hips, measure around the hips about 
7 inches below waist measurement. 

10. To obtain length of sleeve, place tape line same as in 
taking the shoulder measurement. Take length of shoulder, 
from length of shoulder to elbow, and from elbow to wrist. 
To take measurement around the arm, close the hand and 
bend the arm. Take measure around arm between elbow and 



shoulder. Take this measurement as tight or loose as you 
wish the sleeve. Apply tape at elbow and wrist in same man- 
ner. If you wish the sleeve loose at wrist, take the measure 
over the hand. 

To take measurement for a Princess Polonaise, or a tight- 
fitting wrapper, take same measurements as for a basque, and 
the same rule will apply in taking measures for cloaks, except 
that the measures should be one or two sizes larger. 

In taking measures for a tight-fitting walking jacket, take 
same as for basque, excepting in the waist measure, which 
should be taken over the dress. In drafting, use one scale 
larger. If bust measure is 34, use 35 inches. 



To Take and Apply the Hip Meas- 
urement. 



Measure around the hips 7 inches below waist. Meas- 
ure each piece of the front and back draft, 7 inches below 
line G. If the pattern is not as large as the hip measure, add 
part of the surplus on line V, and the remaining part on lines 
T and W. The measure is necessary only in tight-fitting gar 
ments, where no plaits are used in the back. 





THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 





To Draft the Front of a Tight-fitting 
Basque. 




SEE DIAGRAM A. 

N drafting, we select scale by the bust measurement. (In 
this draft we use scale 36.) The top of scale is where 
bust measurement is printed. The side, numbering from 
1 to 26, is used in laying out the waists and sleeves. The 
reverse side of scale, where a portion of the alphabet is printed, 
is used only in the back on line G, in obtaining space for center 
of back and waist measurement. In beginning to draft, have 
the corner of square to your left hand. To obtain lines E 
and F, place square one inch from front and top edges of 
paper, drawing line F, length of short arm of square, and line 
E, length of long arm_ of square, dotting on line E length of 
back of waist, 16 inches. To obtain line G, place corner of 
square at the 16-inch dot, keeping long arm of square on line 
E, and draw line G, dotting on line E length of under arm 
measurement, 8 inches. To obtain line H, place corner of 
square at the 8-inch dot on line E, keeping long arm of square 
on line E, and draw line H, dotting on line H half the width 
of chest measurement, 6^ inches. To obtain line I, place 
corner of square at the 6^-inch dot on line H, keeping short 
arm of square on line H, and draw line I. To obtain No. 11 
for front of neck, place scale on line E with top of scale at 
line F, and dot at No. n. Place top of scale at No. n, and 
dot at No. 1. To obtain No. 8 for side of neck, place scale 
on line F with top of scale at line E, and dot at No. 8. Place 
of scale at No. 8, and dot at No. 3. To obtain No. 5, 



place scale on line I with top of scale at line F, and dot at 
No. 5. To obtain No. 3, place scale on line I with top of 
scale at line H, and dot at No. 3. To obtain No. 25, place 
scale on line H with top of scale at line E, and dot at No. 25. 
Place scale on line G with top of scale at line E, and dot at 
No. 25. To obtain line J, place corner of square at No. 25 
on line G, and at No. 25 on line H, and draw line J. To ob- 
tain the curve portion of line K, place inside curve of short 
arm of square at top of line 1, with inside curve of lung arm 
of square at No. 3 on line I, and draw curve part of line K. 
To obtain line I, for neck, reverse square, placing inside of 
short arm of square at No. 1 1 on line E, with inside of long 
arm of square at No. 8, and draw line I, from No. 1 to No. 3. 
To obtain line M for shoulder, place point I) on dart rule at 
No. 3, with rule side of dart rule at No. 5 on line I, and draw 
length of shoulder required, 5 inches. (In this draft we are 
using 5 )', inches. We usually make front of shoulder from J^ 
to }l inches shorter than the back. ) Place top of scale at the 
5-inch dot, and dot at No. 1. Place point R on dart rule 
midway on line M and No. 1, and draw sloping curve for 
shoulder. To finish line K, place B on dart rule at No. 3 on 
line I, with rounded or convex side at No. 1, and finish draw- 
ing line K. To obtain line X. place 19 on dart rule at the 
intersection of lines E and G, with rule side at No. 1, and 
draw line N. To obtain line for bottom of darts, place 
tape line at No. 1 on line N, and measure down on line N, 
length of front, 1 3 T + inches. Place corner of square at the 
13^-inch dot and at bight of lines G and J, and draw 
line O. To obtain the length and top of darts, place scale on 
line E, with top of scale at line H, dotting on line E at No. 
10. Place scale on line J, with top of scale at line H, dot- 
ting at No. 8 on line J. Place top of scale at No. 10 on 
line E, with end of scale at No. 8 on line J. dotting at Nos. 7 
and 15. Place scale on line O, with top of scale at line E, 
dotting at Nos. 4, 9, n, and 16. To obtain lines P, Q, R, and 
S, place point D on dart rule at No. 7, with rule side of dart 
rule at No. 4 on line O, and draw line P. Reverse dart rule, 
and place point R at No. 7 and at No. 9, and draw line Q. 
Draw lines R and S in the same manner. To obtain line T, 
place 3 inches on dart rule at No. 25 on line H, and at No. 25 
on line G, and draw curved line T. To obtain lower part of 
darts, dot midway on line G from lines R and S, placing cor- 
ner of square at this dot, keeping short arm of square on line 
G, and draw line U. Place scale on line U with top of scale 
at line G, and dot at No. 20. Place top of scale at No. 20 on 
line U, dotting at No. 3. Place corner of square at No. 16 
on line O, and at No. 20 on line U, and draw line W. Place 
corner of square at No. 11 on line O, and at No. 3, and draw 
line X. Dot midway on line (1 from lines P and Q, placing 
corner of square at this dot, with short arm of square on line 
G, drawing line V. Place scale on line V, with top of scale 
at line G, dotting at No. 20. Place top of scale at No. 20, 
and dot at No. 1. Place top of scale at No. 20, and dot at 
Nos. 2 and 7. Place corner of square at No. 9 on line O and 
at No. 1, and draw line Y. Place corner of square at No. 4 
on line O, and at No. 2, and draw line Z. Place corner of 
square at the ^J^-inch dot and at No. 7, and draw line N. 
To obtain hip curve, place top of scale at No. 20 on line U, 
keeping scale parallel with line G, and dot at No. 20. Place 
point R on dart rule at No. 25 on line G, with concave side of 
rule at No. 20, and draw line T. 





THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 




To Draft the Back of a Tight-fitting 
Basque. 



SEE DIAGRAJVI B. 

LACE square one inch from top and front edge of 
paper, drawing line F length of short arm of square, 
and line E length of long arm of square, dotting on 
line E length of back measurement, 16 inches. Place 
corner of square at the 16-inch dot, with long arm of square 
on line E, and draw line G, dotting on line E, length of under 
arm measurement, 8 inches. Place corner of square at the 
8-inch dot, with long arm of square on line E, and draw line 
H, dotting on line H half the width of back measurement, 
dy 2 inches. Place corner of square at the 6 l / 2 -inch dot, keep- 
ing short arm of square on line H, and draw line I. Place 
scale on line E, with top of scale at line F, and dot at No. 3. 
Place scale on line F with top of scale at line E, and dot at 
No. 4. Place top of scale at No. 4, and dot at No. 2. Place 
scale on line E, with top of scale at line H, and dot at No. 10. 
Place scale on line I, with top of scale at line H, dotting at 
Nos. 4, 8, and 11. Place scale on line H, with top of scale at 
line E, and dot at No. 24. Reverse scale, placing scale on 
line G, with top of scale at line E, dotting at A, D, and at the 
waist measurement, 23^ inches. To obtain line J, place 
corner of square at the 23^2 scale, dot on line G, and at No. 
24 on line H, and draw line J, length of under arm measure- 
ment, 8 inches. Place the inside curve on short arm of square 
at top of line J, with inside curve of long arm of square at 
No. 4 on line I, and draw curved part of line K. Place point 
D on dart rule at No. 3 on line E, with rule side at No. 2, and 
draw line L. Place point D on dart rule at No. 2, with rule 





side at No. 11 on line 1, and draw line M, 5'.. inches. Place 
B on dart rule at No. 4 on line 1, with rounded or convex 
part at 5^ inches, and finish line K. Place H on dart rule at 
letter A on line G, with rounding part to No. 10 on line E, 
and draw line N. Place A on dart rule at No. 8, with rounded 
part at letter 1) on line G, and draw line (). To obtain line 
1', dot midway on line G from lines O and J. Dot midway on 
line K from lines and J. Place point D on dart rule at this 
dot on line K, with rule side at this dot on line ('». and draw 
line P. Line P may be drawn to or from line O, to change 
width of back. (See Diagram II.) Place 3 inches on dart 
rule at top of line J, with rule side at the intersection of lines 
J and G, and draw line Q. Place corner of square at the in- 
tersection of lines J and G, with short arm of square on line 
G, and draw line R. Place scale on line R, with top of scale 
at line G, and dot at No. 20. Place top of scale at No. 20, 
and dot at No. 4. Place point R on dart rule at intersection 
of lines J and G, with concave side to No. 4, and draw line Z. 
Place corner of square at intersection of lines G and P, with 
short arm of square on line (1, and draw line S. Place scale 
on line S with top of scale to line G, and dot at No. 20. 
Place top of scale at No. 20, and dot at No. 4. Place point 
D on dart at intersection of lines P and G, with rule side at 
No. 4, and draw line Y. Place top of scale at No. 20 on line 
S, and dot at No. 4. Place point R on dart rule at intersec- 
tion of lines P and G, and at No. 4, and draw line X. Place 
corner of square at intersection of lines O and G, and draw- 
line T. Place scale on line T, with top of scale at line G, 
and dot at No. 20. Place top of scale at No. 20 on line T, 
and dot at No. 4. Place corner of square at intersection of 
lines O and G and at No. 4, and draw line W. Place corner 
of square at intersection of lines N and G, with short arm 
of square on line G, and draw line U. Place scale on line U, 
with top of scale at line G, and dot at No. 20. Place top of 
scale at No. 20 on line U, and dot at No. 4. Place corner of 
square at intersection of lines N and G and at No. 4, and 
draw line V. 



Betjuare of Imitations. 



'T'HE success which has everywhere attended the introduction of the 
^? Kellogg French Tailor System, has induced unprincipled inn- 
is tators to offer to the public a variety of schemes for cutting ladies' 
garments, purporting to be tailor systems, and claiming to be sufficient to 
meet all the demands for first-class work. I deem it a duty not only to 
protect myself but the public from imposition by stating that any system of 
cutting by diagrams, either of cardboard, tin, or other metal, without the 
use of the tailor's square, is not a tailor system, and those who call it such 
are either ignorant or unprincipled. 

While we concede the right of everybody to use even a poor system of 
dress-cutting, if they choose, we do not wisli them to be imposed upon by 
imitations ; but would caution every lady to insist that any system offered 
her should do the work expeditiously, and without the necessity of refitting 
or re-basting, which the Kellogg French Tailor System is warranted 
to do, as attested by thousands of practical dress-makers who are using it 
with immense success, having discarded all other methods in its favor. 

We would also call attention to the importance at personal instruction 
in learning to use any system of cutting. The necessity of this is so appar- 
ent as to require no argument. All agents sent out by us are instructed to 
give close attention to this particular, and our patrons are hereby advised to 
insist upon receiving full and explicit directions, accompanied with actual 
working experiments on the different varieties of work. 



Seale-holdep. 



.JJaVERY person using the French Tailor System should have a scale- 
"*£ holder for keeping the scales in place, when you can instantly 
i select the scale you wish to cut by. This is a means of keeping the 
scales clean and smooth, and may be made by sewing two pieces of dress 
lining or muslin together, leaving a separate space for each scale. The 
scales should first be cut separate by cutting crosswise on the long black 
lines, the ends cut square. The size of scale-holder should be 15 inches 
wide at one end, and 6 inches at the other. 

Persons not caring to make one, can be supplied by us, at 50 cents e 





THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM, 







To Draft a Tightrfitting Sleeve by 
Aetual JVIeasurement. 

SEE DIAGRAM C. 

RAW line A length of long arm of square, and line B 
length of short arm of square. Place scale on line B, 
with top of scale at line A, dotting at Nos. 8 and 16. 
To obtain length of sleeve, place 5^ inches on tape 
line (this being the length of shoulder used in this draft) on 
line B, midway from Nos. 8 and 16, bringing tape line at line 
A, dotting at length of elbow measurement 18^ inches, and 
at length of wrist 25 y 2 inches. Place corner of square at the 
18^-inch dot, keeping long arm of square on line A, and 
draw line C. Place square at the 25^-inch dot, and draw 
line D. Place scale on line A, with top of scale at line B, and 
dot at No. 11. Place scale on line C, with top of scale at line 
A, dotting at No. 4. Place scale on line D, with top of scale 
at line A, dotting at No. 2. Place point E on dart rule at No. 
n, with rounded or convex side at No. 8, and draw part of 
line E from No. 11 to No. 8. Reverse dart rule, placing letter 
A at No. 11, with convex side at No. 16, and draw line F. 
Place D on dart rule at No. 4 on line C, with rule side at No. 
11, drawing upper part of line G. Reverse dart rule, placing 
R at No. 4, with concave side at No. 2, finishing line G. 
Place scale on line F, with top of scale at line A, dotting at 
No. 15 on line F. To obtain the size around the top of the 
sleeve, measure the arm scye of waist pattern, adding to the 
measurement two inches to give fulness for sleeve (in this 
draft we use 16 inches for sleeve). Measure with tape line 
from No. 15 on line F to No. 11, and from No. 11 to No. 8 
on line E, and from No. 8 the length of line B, dotting on line 
t top of sleeve measurement, 16 inches. Measure with 



tape line on line C from line G, dotting on line C one half of 
elbow measurement, 5 inches. Measure on line D from line 
G, dotting on line D one half of wrist measurement, 4 inches. 
Place scale on line C, with top of scale at the 5-inch dot, dot- 
ting at No. 3. Place top of scale at the 5 -inch dot on line C, 
dotting at No 3. Place scale on line D, with top of scale 
at the 4-inch dot, dotting at No. 3 on scale side of the 
4-inch dot. Place F on dart rule at No. 3 on line C, with 
convex side at No. 3 on line D, drawing lower part of line H. 
To give more fulness over the muscle of the arm, drop F on 
dart rule i l /z inches below line C. (See Diagram C.) Draw 
lower part of line I in the same manner. Place B on dart 
rule at No. 3, with convex side at No. 15, drawing upper part 
of line H. (In drawing upper part of lines H and I, B on 
dart rule may be moved above or below line C, to form a 
true curve.) Place B on dart rule at No. 3, with convex side 
at the 16-inch dot, and finish upper part of line I. Place scale 
on line H, with top of scale at line F, dotting at No. 2. Place 
scale on line I, with top of scale at line B, dotting at No. 6. 
Place point C on dart rule at No. 6 on line I, with convex side 
at No. 16 on line B, drawing part of line E. Finish line E with 
curve on square from Nos. 8 and 16. Place A on dart rule at 
No. 11, with convex side at No. 2, drawing running line. 
Measure with tape line from line G to line H, midway from 
lines C and F, placing the amount, 4^ inches, at line G, meas- 
uring across to line I, dotting at arm measurement, eleven 
inches. Dot midway from the 11 -inch dot to line T, 

placing the amount on the inside of line H. Place B on 
dart rule at No. 3 and at this dot, and draw part of line K. 
Place 3 inches on dart rule at No. 2, and at upper part of line 
K, and finish drawing line K. Draw line J in the same 
manner. 



P^ICE LtlST. 



One System Complete 

One System Complete, with instructions. . 
One Double Adjustable Tracing Wheel. . . 

One Measure Book 

One Best Sateen Tape Line 

Folding Square and Bias Rule, combined . 
Scale-holder 



$ 5 00 

IO 00 

75 

5° 

5° 

2 OO 

5° 

PARTS OF SYSTEfll, WHEN PURCHASED SEPARATELY. 

One Square $2 00 

One Set of Scales 1 00 

Dart and Sleeve Rule 1 00 

Instruction Book 1 00 

Any part of the System can be purchased separately. System complete 
consists of a Tailor's Wooden Square or Adjustable Square and Bias Rule, 
Ladies' Graded Bust Scales, Children's Graded Bust Scales, Tailor's 
Wooden Dart and Sleeve Rule, Tailor's Sateen Tape Line, and Illustrated 
Instruction Book. 

Systems can be sent to any part of the United States or Canada by ex- 
press, upon receipt of price. Double Adjustable Tracing Wheels can be 
sent by mail. 

TRimmED SUITS. 

Trimmed Polonaise $1 50 to $2 50 

" Basques 1 00 

' ' Overskirts 1 00 

' ' Sacques 1 00 

' ' Wrappers 2 OO 

Elegant trimmed suits for display for children, misses, 

and ladies 5 00 12 00 

DRESS~mA*r.ER'S SHEARS. 

Imported expressly for our trade, and warranted superior to any others 
manufactured. 



2 00 
2 50 
2 00 
5 00 



6-inch shears $1 00 I 

8-inch shears I 40 j 



9-inch shears $2 00 

10-inch shears 2 25 



Remittances should be made by draft, post-office money-order, postal 
note, registered letter, or express. Goods will be sent C. O. D. by express, 
when desired. In ordering, be sure to give the name of the State in which 
you reside, name of town or post-office, and your own name, Miss or Mrs., 
in full, and plainly written. 

Address, 

MME. KELLOGG, 

Battle Creek, Mich 




-J 



r 



THE KI'.I.I.OGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 





HaH 




DIAGRAM Ho. 1. 



In making all drafts in this book, you are referred to 
diagrams A, B, and C for all lettered lines, if bothered in 
drafting. Diagram i is drafted the same as diagram A, except 
at No. 20 on line V. No. 1 is used to give more spring below 
waist line. 



DIAGRAM ]Mo. 2. 



Draft the same as diagram B, except on line I. No. 
7 is used for line O. Higher or lower numbers on the scale 
may be used on line I to bring line O to or from line M, by 
carrying line near line M, giving the appearance of a longer 

waist. 



DIAGRAM No. 3. 



To draft a Jersey waist without darts, intended for a slim 
person only. It is drafted the same as diagram A, except on 
line O. Dot at Nos. 2 and 18. Place B on dart rule at No. 2, 
with convex side at line H, drawing lower part of line N. 
Dot midway from lines N and J on line G, drawing straight 
line from this dot, dotting No. 20 on this line. Dot No. 20 
for hip curve, and No. n for line N. Place F on dart rule at 
No. 2 on line O, with convex side at No. 11. Finish drawing 
line N, dot at No. 1 from No. 11, and draw curved line with 
point D on dart rule. 





THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM!. 





I !;:!l'ii;.!:!?IIIlii 1 IJJilillSiKiBIi! 



N.8. 



K..3 




Nalff 





DIAGRAM Ho. *. 



To draft a tight-fitting waist with one dart. Draft the 
same as diagram A, except on line G. Dot at No. 22, and on 
line O at Nos. 5 and 12. Dot at No. 9 for top of darts. 
Higher or lower darts may be had by dotting at higher or 
lower numbers. At No. 20 on line V dot at No. 1 for a stout 
person, and at No. 2 for a slim person, the same for the hip, 
giving as much spring as the person requires by dotting at 
higher or lower numbers. 



DIAGRAM Ho. 5. 



To draft the Worth dart. Draft the same as diagram A, 
except on line G. Dot at No. 2$, then place No. 16 on scale 
at No. 23, and dot at No. 25, and on line O dot at Nos. 4, 9, 
1 1, and 23. Place corner of square at No. 25 on line G, at 
No. 25 on line H, and draw line J. length of under arm meas- 
urement 8 inches. Draw darts in same manner as diagram A. 
Draw line U, and from No. 20 on line U dot at No. 7 (for a 
slim person dot at No. 8 or 9 to take out surplus fulness), and 
at No. 6 for lines W and X. For hip curve dot from No. 7 at 
No. 23; if more spring is required for hip, dot at Nos. 24 or 25. 
This dart should never be used for a stout, short-waisted per- 
son. Diagram 8 should be used for such a form. 



DIAGRAM Ho- 6. 



For carrying the lower part of darts nearer the front 
place scale at No. 20 on line U, dotting at Nos. 2 and 4 for 
lines W and X ; and from No. 20 on line V dot at No. 2 for 
line Z. • 





THE KI-: !.!.< )GG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 





No.1 Ko1 





DIAGRAM Ho. 7. 



For a fleshy person, draft same as Diagram A. except for 

line H. 1 >< > t at Nos. 2 and 4. and from No. 20 on line U dot 
at No. 2. For lines Y and Z dot at No. I, and for line N at 
No. 8 or 9. 



DIAGRAJVI jvlo. 8. 



To draft the French dart, draft the same as Diagram A, 

except on line ('■. 1 lot at No. 20. then place No. 16 on scale 
at No. 20 on line ( ), dotting at No. 25. ( >n line < ) dot at Nos. 
4. i), 1 1 , and -o. From No. 20 on line I' dot at No. 6, and on 



ine V from No. 20 dot at No. 3, and at Ni 



for hip curve. 



D1AGRAJVT Ho. 9. 



I ms is drafted the same .1 - I liagram \. except for \Y, X. 
Y. /. and N. Place scale at No. ;o on line I", dotting at 
Nos. 3, 5. 7. 10, and 14. This diagram is to show where 
seams are allowed in using the double adjustable tracing 
wheel. It also shows the ' 4 inch from line N. for button 
holes. It also gives the narrow front. To obtain this, dot on 
line at 3, 8, 10, 15, and 25. 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM 






DIAG^AJVT Ho. 10. 



This is for a very large person. Draft the same as 
Diagram B, except that the space between lines O and Q 
should be divided into three parts, drawing both lines same 
as line P. with point D on dart rule. 



DIAG^AJW fJo. 11. 



<?3\ 



This is for the French back. Should be used only for 
slim persons. Draft same as Diagram B, except that the 
space from lines N and Q is divided into two parts. Line O 
may be drawn to or from Line N. 



DIAG^AJW flo. 12. 



This is for a person who is very long waisted, and wears 
the drapery very low in the back. Is drafted same as Diagram 
B, except on line E from line G. Dot at No. 2, and draw 
sloping line. Dot at A and D on this line, and draw lines N, 
O, and P. From this line draw lines T and V to No. 4. This 
draft also shows how to allow for plaits in back. 




s/ 






P 



THE KELLOGC PRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 




JM 




MoM 



No.SH 





DIAGRAM fio. 13. 



This diagram shows the under arm-piece finished below 
waist tine same as Diagram B, by placing corner of square at 
intersection of lines Q and (1, with short arm of square on 
line G, and draw line R. Dot on line R at No. 20, and from 
No. 20 at No. 4. Place point R on dart rule at intersection 
of lines Q and G, with concave side at No. 4, and draw line 
Z. To draw line V, place corner of square at intersection of 
lines G and P, and draw line S. Dot at No. 20 on line S, and 
from No. 20 at No. 4. Place point D on dart rule at inter- 
sei tion of lines G and P, with convex side at No. 4. and draw 

line Y. 

•- — • — * 

DIAGRAM No. 14. 



This 3iagram is to show lower part of back below waist 
line. Place corner of square at intersection of lines and (i, 
and draw line T. Place corner of square at intersection of 
lines N and (i. and draw line I". Dot on line U at No. 20, 
and from No. 20 at No. 4. and draw line V. Line V is drawn 

with square. 

»-•-• 

DIAGRAM No. 15. 



This is to show the side body extended below waist line. 
Place corner of square at intersection of lines G and P, and 
draw line S. Dot at No. 20 on line S, and from No. 20 at No. 
4. Place point R on dart rule at intersection of lines P and 
G, with concave side at No. 4, and draw line X. Place cor- 
ner of square at intersection of lines G and O, and draw line 
T. Dot at No. 20 on line T, and from 20 at No. 4, and d 
line W with square. 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM, 






DIAGRAM fio. 16. 



Showing how to draft the Worth back. Draft same as 
diagram B, except lines O and P. To obtain line O, place 
three inches on dart rule midway on line M, with convex side 
at letter D, and draw line O. Line O may be drawn to or 
from line N, to make a narrow or wide back. Line P is 
drawn by placing D on dart rule at No. 4, with convex side at 
dot on line G. 



DIAGRAM Ho. 17. 



Represents an English Newmarket, with a vest-front 
and skirt. In cutting outside wraps, select one scale larger in 
making the draft than you use in drafting a basque. Meas- 
urements are taken the same as for a basque, except the waist 
measurement, which must be taken outside the dress. This 
diagram is drafted the same as diagrams A and B. Join the 
under arm-piece to the front about five inches below waist 
line. See engraving 17, as made up. 



DIAGRAM Jio. 18. 



Showing an ulster with cape. Draft the same as dia 
gram 17, using a French back. For cape draft, see diagram 
32, and engraving 18, as made up. 




13 



& x^ 



w 



THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAII.OK SYSTEM. 






Diagram J^o. 19. 



Showing a long wrap with dol- 
man sleeve. Any style of dolman 
sleeve may be used. It is very 
difficult to give diagrams for dol 
man sleeves, as the) change in 
style so often. See engraving [9. 



Diagram J^o. 20. 



In drafting for children, use 
bust scales numbering from 20 to 

30. To draft a princess dress 
without a dart for a child, draft 
the same as diagram A. To ob- 
tain the curved front, use dart ? 
rule, same c urve as is used on 
the Worth back. 




Diagram Ho. 21. 



To draft a basque with one dart 
for a child, use 8 and 1 2 for darts. 



No. 5 



Diagram f4o. 22. 



A TIGHT-FITTJNC back for a 
child is drafted same as dia- 
gram B. 





14 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM 



No.fr 





Diagram J^o. 23. 

A loose back for a child, using 
>n line G No. 24, same as on line 



H. 



Diagram jvlo. 24. 



A loose French back for a 
child, using on line G No. 24, 
same as on line H. See Diagram 
li for lines. 



Diagram fio. 25. 



Sack front for a child. Draftei 
same as Diagram A, without darts 



Diagram f«lo. 2G. 



Sack back for a child. Drafted 
same as Diagram B, except on line 
('.. which should be dotted at No. 




15 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAll.oK SYSTEM. 




13V 2 in 




Diagram Jio. 27. 

\ ( loak sleeve for a child. Draft 
same as Diagram C, except on line 

] ). I Maw lines 1 1 and I to the wrist 
measurement. . 




Diagram f4o. 28. 



Draft the same as Diagram C, 
except mi line I. Dot at No. 7 in- 
stead of No. 6. This is to take all 
fulness or wrinkles out of the back 
of the sleeve. 




Diagram f<lo. 29. 



Draft the same as Diagram C, 
except on line C, which should be 
dotted at No. i un each side of the 
elbow measurement, and on line L 
draw lines H and I to the wrist 
measurement, 5 inches. 




Diagram f4o. 30. 



Draft of a French sleeve for a 
fleshy arm. Draft same as Diagram 
(', without lines J and K. On line 
D dot at No. 3 outside of line A, 
and draw lines with dart rule, same 
as line (1 on Diagram C. For wrist 
measurement, measure on line D 
from line A, and finish sleeve same 
as 1 liagram C. 




16 



THE KELLOQO FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM: 





Diagram Jio. 31. 



A loose sleeve without an outside seam, 
is made by joining the under part of 
sleeve to upper part, as shown in diagram. 



Diagram |^o. 32. 



A circular and cape are easily made by 
joining the front and back drafts at point 
of shoulder. For fulness at point of 
shoulder, join together, as shown in dia- 
gram. A gore may be used in the back 
if desired. 



Diagram f4o. 33. 



A straight sleeve for a cloak is drawn 
by using No. 2 on line C, and dotting at 
No. 1 at elbow and wrist. See Diagram 
33- 



Diagram fio. 44. 



A tight-fitting cloak sleeve with lines 
H and I drawn from elbow measurement 
to wrist measurement. 




17 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 



No.fi No.12 



No.Jdb No. 6 





O 



. -_ t ^ -y 



No.15 



Na.Sfe 



No. 20 





fttA&RAM N0*6 ? 



To Draft a Skirt. 



DIAGRAM fJO. 35. 

Draw straight line length of short ami long arm of square, extending 
line on long arm of square length of skirt, 40 inches (being the length of 
skirt used in this draft), dotting at one half the length of skirt, 20 inches. 
1 (raw straight line from the 20-inch and 40-inch dots. Place scale on top 
line, dotting at Nos. 6, 12, and 26. Place top of scale at No. 26, and 
dot at No. 6. Place scale on middle line with top of scale at the 
20-inch dot, and dot at Nos. 12 and 26. Place top of scale at No. 26, 
and dot at No. 12. Place scale on bottom line, with top of scale at the 
40-inch dot, and dot at Nos. 12 and 26. Place top of scale at No. 26, and 
clot at No. 20. Draw straight line from No. 20 on bottom line to No. 
12, and from No. 12 to No. 6 on top line. Place scale on this line with 
top of scale at No. 6, and dot at No. 26. Place scale on front line, 
with top of scale at top line, and dot at No. 26. Place 3 inches on 
dart rule at No. 6, with concave side at No. 26, and draw hip curve. 
Reverse dart rule, and draw hip curve from No. 6 to No. 26. Draw 
straight line from No. 1 2. using the larger part of draft for front gore. 
See Diagram No. 36. Use full draft No. 35 lor side gore. 



DIAGRAM NO. 36. 

Showing the front gore, as*taken from diagram 35. 



DIAGRAM Ho. 37. 

Siiowim. Diagram 36 extended lor a trained skirt. Gores maybe 
used at top of skirt, as shown on diagrams. 



18 





THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM:. 








DIAGRAM l^o. 40. 



To draft the front of a boy's coat. Draft same as Dia- 
gram A. Join the under arm-piece to the under arm seam. 
Shape <oat with dart rule. 



DIAGRAM rlo. 41. 



To draft the back of a boy's coat. Draft same as 
Diagram B, using No. i on line G, for slope in back. 



DlAGt^AlVT Ho. 42. 



To draft knee pants for a small boy. Draft front and 
top lines with square. Dot on top line at Nos. 4 and 21. 
Place top of scale at No. 21, and dot at Nos. 8 and 12. 
Measure on front line length of pants. (The length in this 
draft is 10 and t}4 inches.) Dot at No. 5 from the 10-inch 
dot, and from No. 5 to No. 4. Form curve with square, and 
dot on bottom line at No. 13. Place top of scale at No. 13, 
and dot at No. 21. Draw line from No. 21 to No. 12. Dot 
on this line at No. 13, and from No. 13 to No. 4. With 
dart rule draw curved line from No. 4 to No. 21. Dot from 
No. 21 on curved line at No. 7. Draw curves with dart rule 
and square. 



DIAGRAM ^o. 43 



Draft similar to Diagram 42. When making any draft, 
refer to diagram. 




19 



THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 



^ 



j~' 



\ 




To Draft the Front of a Tight-fitting 
Basque. 

SEE DIAGRAM SO. 

'X drafting we select scale by the bust measurement (in 
this draft we use scale 36). The top of scale is where 
bust measurement is printed. The side, numbering 
from i to 26, is used in laving out the waists and sleeves. 
The reverse side of scale, where a portion of the alphabet is 
printed, is used only in the back on line C, in obtaining space 
for back and waist measurement. In commencing to draft, 
have the corner of square to your left hand ; place square one 
inch from front and top edges of paper, drawing line B length 
of short arm of square, and line A length of long arm of 
square, dotting on line A length of waist in back, 16 inches. 
Place corner of square at this dot, keeping long arm on line 
A, drawing line C, dotting on line A length of under arm 
( measurement, 8 inches. Place corner of square at the 8-inch 



dot, keepinj irm of square on line A, drawing lim D, 

dotting on line 1> half of the chest measurement, 7 inches. 
Place corner of square at the 7 inch dot, keeping short arm 
of square on line D, drawing line E. Place stale on line A 
with top of scale al line B, dotting at No. 9. Place top of 
scale ai No. n with scale across line I'., dotting at No. 1. 
Placi scale on line I! with top of scale at line A, dotting at 
No. 8. Place top of scale at No. 8 with scale across line D, 
dotting at No. 1. Place scale on line E with top of scale at 
line B, dotting al \>>. 4. Place scale on line E with top of 
scale at line D, dotting .1! No. 4. Place scale at line I) with 
tup of scale at line A, dotting at No. 25. Place scale on line 
(' with top of scale at line A, dotting at No. 25. Place corner 
of square at No. 25 on line (', with long arm of square at No. 
25 (in line I i, drawing line I'. Place scale on line A with top 
of scale at line D, dotting at No. io. Place scale on line F 
with top of scale at line 1), dotting at No. 8. Place top of 
scale at No. 10 on line A, with No. 25 (on scale) at No. 8 on 
ine F, dotting at Nos. 7 and 15. Higher or lower darts may 
be obtained by dotting at higher or lower numbers on scale. 
Any style of darts may be made by using different numbers 
on scale. The spaces front line A to No. 5, from No. 10 to 
12, from 17 to 25 MUST NEVER BE CHANGED. Place 19 on dart 
rule at intersection of lines A and (' with rule side to No. 1 
at point of neck, and draw line K. Measure with tape line 
from No. 1 at top of line K.. down on line K, dotting at length 
of front measurement. 14 inches. (This added line may van- 
above or below line C.) Place corner of square at the 14- 
inch dot with short arm of square at intersection of lines C 
and F. drawing line Q. Place scale on line Q with top of 
scale at line A, dotting at Nos. 5, 10, 12 and 17. 
Place D on dart rule at No. 1, below line B, with 
rule side at No. 4, drawing line < '. length of shoulder, 
5j4 inches. The shoulder on front draft must be 
one-half inch shorter than the back (in this draft 
the shoulder measurement is six inches). Place 
top of scale at the 5^2-inch dot with scale across 
line D, dotting at No. i. Reverse dart rule, placing 
R midway on line ('. and at No. 1, drawing line H. 
Place B on dart rule at No. 4 and at No. 1, draw- 
ing upper part of line I. Place curve in square at 
No. 4 with inside of short arm of square at No. 
25, drawing under part of line I. Place inside of 
short arm of square at No. 1 at top of line K with 
inside of long arm of square at No. 1 at top of 
line G, drawing line J. Place D on dart rule at No. 
7 with rule side at No. 5 on line Q, drawing line M. 
Reverse dart rule and draw line N from No. 7 to 
No. 10. Obtain lines and P in the same manner. Place 3 
inches on dart rule at intersection of lines D and F with rule side 
at intersection of lines C and F, drawing line L. Dot on line 
C midway from Nos. 5 and 10, placing corner of square at this 
dot, keeping short arm of square on line C, drawing line R. 
Place scale on line R with top of scale at line C, dotting at 
No. 20. Dot at No. 1 on each side of line R opposite No. 20. 
Place top of scale at No. 20 with scale across line A, dotting 
at No. 9. (For a stout or slim person dot at higher or lower 
numbers, according to fulness desired.) Place corner of 
square at intersection of lines Q and A with long arm at No. 9, 
drawing line X. Place corner of square at No. 5 on line Q 
with long arm of square at No. 1, drawing line S. Draw lines 
T, U, Y, and W in the same manner. Place top of scale at 
No. 20 on line U, keeping scale parallel with line C, dotting 
at No. 20. Place R on dart rule at intersection of lines C and 
F with inside of dart rule at No. 20, drawing line V. Shape 
bottom of basque with dart rule. 



No.aj 




20 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM 




*No.4 Line B 



No. 1 1 



No. 24 




To Draft the Baek of a Tight-fitting 
Basque. 

SEE DIAGRflW 51. 

vjLACE square one inch from front and top edges of 
paper, drawing line B, length of short arm of square, 
and line A, length of waist, 16 inches. Place corner 
of square at the 1 6-inch dot, keeping long arm of square on 
line A, drawing line C, length of short arm of square, dotting 
on line A length of under arm measurement, 8 inches. Place 
corner of square at the 8-inch dot, keeping long arm of square 
on line A, drawing line D, dotting on line D half the width of 
back measurement, 6 inches. Place corner of square at the 6- 
inch dot, keeping short arm of square on line D, drawing line 
Place scale on line A with top of scale at line B, dotting 




at No. 2. Place scale on line B with top of scale at line A, 
dotting at No. 4. ' Place top of scale at No. 4 with scale across 
line D, dotting at No. 1. Place scale on line A with top of 
scale at intersection of lines A and D, dotting at No. 10. 
Place scale on line E, with top of scale at line D, dotting at 
Nos. 4, 6, and 11. Place scale on line D with top of scale at 
line A, dotting at No. 24. Reverse scale, placing scale on line 
C with top of scale at line A, dotting at A, E, and then at the 
waist measurement, 235^ inches. Place D on dart rule at No. 
2 on line A, with rule side to No. 1, drawing line G. Place D 
on dart rule at No. 1, with rule side to No. 1 1 on line E, draw- 
ing line H, length of shoulder, 6 inches. Place B on dart rule 
at No. 4 on line E, drawing to length of shoulder the upper 
part of line I. Place corner of square at the 23^-inch dot on 
line C, and at No. 24 on line D, drawing line F, length of 
under arm measurement, 8 inches. Place curve on square at 
No. 4, with inside of short arm of square at top of line F, 
drawing under part of line I. Place corner of square at A on 
line C, and to No. 10 on line A, drawing line J. Place A on 
dart rule at No. 6 and to E on line C, drawing line K. (Any 
desired curve for back may be obtained by raising or lowering 
the dart rule on line K.) Dot on line C midway between lines 
K and F. Dot one third of the distance on line I from lines 
K and F. Place D on dart rule at this dot, with rule side to 
dot on line C, drawing line L. (Line L may be drawn to or 
from line K, as desired.) Place 3 inches on dart rule at top 
of line F, with rule side at intersection of lines C and F, draw- 
ing line M. To obtain lower part of basque, dot on line C, 
midway from lines J and K, placing corner of square at this 
dot, with short arm on line C, drawing line N. Place scale 
on line N with top of scale at line C, dotting at No. 20. 
Measure the distance on line C from lines J and K, placing 
the amount thus obtained, i)4 inches, on each side of line N, 
opposite No. 20. Place corner of square at intersections of 
lines C and J with long arm of square at dot \]/ 2 inches, draw- 
ing line O ; from line K to the 1 'i-inch dot, drawing line P. 
Dot midway on line C from lines K and L, placing corner of 
square at this dot with short arm on line C, drawing line Q. 
Place scale on line Q with top of scale at line C, dotting at 
No. 20. Measure the distance on line C from lines K and L, 
placing the amount, 2 :/s inches, on each side of line Q oppo- 
site No. 20. Place corner of square at intersection of lines 
C and K with long arm at the 2 3, 6 -inch dot, drawing line R. 
Place R on dart rule at the intersection of lines G and L and 
at the 2^-inch dot, drawing line S. Dot midway on line C 
from lines L and F, placing corner of square at this dot, with 
short arm on line C, drawing line T. Place scale on line T 
with top of scale at line C, dotting at No. 20. Measure the 
distance on line C from lines L and F, placing the amount, 
2j4 inches, on each side of line T, opposite No. 20. (The 
distance in these measurements will vary according to draft.) 
Place D on dart rule at intersection of lines C and L and at the 
2^-inch dot, drawing line U. Place R on dart rule at inter- 
section of lines C and F and at the 2^3-inch dot, drawing line 
V. In cutting out the pattern, cut through lines P and K, U 
and L, which will destroy lines R and S. Pin a piece of 
paper on line C from lines K and L, drawing lines R and S, 
same as before cutting out. 




21 




THE KiaLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 



No. 8 Une B 



No. 4 Line B 




Rule for Drafting Back of a Dolman. 



SEE DIAGRAM It. 

ngofl the back of a dolman, proceed in same manner as fi.r 
back of a basque, except in getting width of back. Place tc.p «>f 

and dot at numbers 2 ami 9. 





Rule for Drafting Sleeve of a Dolman. 



N... 19 No. 6 



"NV..6 No. 12 




SEE DIAGRAM M"- 

|\RAW line A length of long arm of square, and line B length of short 
»H arm of square. Place top of scale at the corner of lines A and I? on 
*G A, and clot at numbers 12 and 23 Place top of scale at number 
23 on line A, and dot at numbers 12 and 23. Place corner of square at 
number 12 and line A, keeping short arm of square on line A, and draw 
line C. Place corner of square at number 23, with short arm on line A, 
and draw line D. Place top of scale at corner of lines A and P>, on line 
B, and dot at numbers II and 19. Place top of scale at number 19 on 
line B, and dot at numbers 6 and 9. Place corner of square at number 
19, and short arm on line B, and draw line E. Place top of scale at 
number 11 on line B, and dot at number 2. Place top of scale at num- 
ber 6 on line B, and dot at number 2. Place top of scale at number 9 on 
line B, and dot at number 6. Place top of scale at number 12 on line A, 
and dot at number 4 on line C. Place top of scale at number 23, and dot at 
number 1 on line D. Place top of scale at the corner of lines C and E, 
and dot at number 12. Place top of scale at corner of lines D and E, and 
dot at number 23. Place top of scale at number 23, and dot at 6 and 12. 
Place top of scale at number 6 on line D, and dot at number I. Shape 
sleeve with dart rule. 



Rule for Drafting a Dolman. 



SEE DIAGRAM K- 

r , rife AY off upper part of dolman same as for a basque. Shape neck, 
|y shoulder, and arm scye same as for a basque. Place top of scale 
■^ at the 16-inch dot, at corner of lines A and C, on line C, and dot at 
numbers 7 and 16. Place top of scale at number 16 on line C, and dot at 
number 17. Place top of scale at number 17 on line C, and dot at num- 
bers 12 and 21. Place corner of square at number 1 5, keeping short arm 
of square on line C, and draw line F. Draw lines G and H in same 
manner. Place top of scale at number 7 on line C, and dot down num- 
ber 7. Place top of scale at number 16, and dot at number 13 on line 
F. Place top of scale at number 17, and dot at number 16 on line G. 
Place top of scale at number 12 on line C, and dot at number 5. Place 
top of scale at number 21, and dot at numbers 4, 8, and 19 on line H. 
Place top of scale at number 19 on line H, and dot at number 13. Draw 
curves with dart rule. Use double adjustable tracing wheel to transfer 
the under arm-piece on a separate paper. 




22 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Wag 




16 "M. 





To Draft an Extra Front Dart. 

SEE DIAGRRm 53. 

Diagram 53 may be drawn same as Diagram 5, except on line 
D. Dot at Nos. 23 and 25, and on line C. After placing No. 
16 at No. 23, dot at No. 20 and 25. When dotting at No. 7 for 
line T, dot at No. 14 for lines W and X. 



To Draft a Sleeve uiith One Seam. 

SEE DIAGRAM 54. 

Measure and draw upper part and line I, same as Diagram 
56. Dot on line D the elbow measurement, 10 inches, and at 
half of the elbow measurement, 5 inches, dotting at No. 3 from 
the 5-inch dot. Dot at No. 14 on line C from line D, and at No. 
6 from No. 14. Draw line E by placing three inches on square 
at No. 26, with inside of square at No. 4, on line D. Dot on line 
E from line I the wrist measurement, 8 inches. Draw line K by 
placing K on dart rule at No. 3 and at No. 6, drawing line L by 
placing D on dart rule at No. 6, and at the 8-inch dot. 



To Draft a Lieg of mutton Sleeve. 

SEE DIAGRAf/1 55. 

To draft Diagram 55, draw lines A and B, dotting on line B 
Nos. 9 and 25. Place top of scale at dot 25, and dot at Nos. 6 
and 2^. Draw line C from No. 23, dotting on line C No. 23, and 
on line A No. 20. To obtain line D, measure the inside of the 
arm, and apply this measurement from No. 20 on line A, dotting 
at arm measurement 18 inches. Dot on line D from line A No. 
11. Dot on line D from No. n measurement of wrist, 8 inches. 
Place D on dart rule at No. 23 and at the 8-inch dot on line D, 
and draw line H. Place R on dart rule at No. 20 and at No. 11, 
and draw line G. Place E on dart rule at No. 23 and at No. 6, 
and draw line F. Dot on line F from line B No. 13. Place C on 
dart rule at Nos. 13 and 25, and draw part of line E. Place E 
on dart rule at No. 20 and at No. 9, and draw part of line E. 
The upper part of line E may be drawn higher or lower, accord 
ing to style. 




23 






Till-; KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM!. 





To Draft a Bell Sleeve.— See Diagram No. 56. 

Draw lini B, Jutting at N'o. n on line A, and Nos. 8 and 16 

on line B. Measure for length of arm same as fur Diagram C, drawing 

ami D, dolling on line 1 >, No. 7. Draw line H same as line G on 

Diagram C, finishing ihe upper pan ol sleeve same as Diagram C. l'lace 

scale at the 1 ch dol on line P>, ;.nd dot at No. 13, drawing line E 

from No. 13. Dot at No. 1 1 on line E and No. 7 on line D, drawing line 
I same as line 11. Dot at No. 6 from ihe 16-inch dot, and draw line F 
0. 11 to No. 6, same as Diagram C. Draw line J midway on line 
I 1. .1 ni ting at No. 17 "ii line J. and at No. y on each side of No. 17, and 
draw lines K. ami 1. with inside curve of dart rule. Bottom <>f sleeve may 
be drawn in any style bj using different Nos. on scale. 



To Draft the Front of Cape- — See Diagram No. 57. 

Draw the upper and front part same as Diagram A. On line C dot at 
No. 14 from line A, placing 1) on dart rule at point of shoulder, and it No. 
14 on line C, and draw line I. 



No. 8 





LINE 


B. 






No.3 


^siWE^ 


z 










2 


As 









^ 

-<>* 


Z 

in 




jr 




n 




IZ 








m 









To Draft the Back and Sleeve of Cape. — See Diagram No- 58. 

Draw the back same as Diagram B. Dot on scale al A ami G on line C. 
To obtain fullness for cape, measure the lady at the bottom of waist over 
the arms. This measurement being 46, we measure at one 1 alf on line C 
by measuring the distance from line A lo line I on line C on Diagram No. 
57. Placing the amount, 5 inches, at letter A on line C, dot at No. 9 on 
line I from line II. On line I! from line E dot at Nos. 7 and 14, and 
at No. 6 from Nos. 7 and 14. Place E on dart rule at No. 6 on line I and at No. 11 on line 
E, and draw part of line K. Form rounding curve from No. II to Nos. 6 and 6. Place E on 
dart rule at No. 6 and at No. 23, and draw line K. Measure line K from No. 6, nearest 
line E to No. 26, dotting at 14 inches, drawing line J from letter G to the 14 inch dot. 



00 



LINED. 



To Draft a Collar for a Coat.— See Diagram 59. 

Draw lines A and B, dotting on line A 9 inches, and at Nos. 15 and Iy; and on line B 
from line A Nos. 3 and 5, and from Nos. 15 and iy Nos. 6 and 5. Dot from 9-inch dot, No. 4. 
To draw line C, place D on dart rule at the y inch dot, and at No. 5 on line B. To draw 
line D, place D on dart rule at No. 6 and No. 3. To draw line E, place D on dart rule at Nos. 6 
and 4. 

To Draft a Standing Collar.— See Diagram 60. 

Measure on line A the length of collar desired, 
placing D on dart rule at 2-inch dot, keeping top 
of dart rale straight on line A, and draw line C 
length of collar. Draw line B in 
the same inann r. Cuffs may al 
lie drawn by this same 
principle. 



Diagram 67. 




m 



LINE C 




— - LINE A. No. 15 no. 19 





24 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 





Hints for Basting. 



N placing the lining on the dress goods, be sure the 
threads on the lining at bottom of waist run parallel 
with the threads in the dress goods. Pin the lining 
firmly. Do not put your poor help at basting. This, above 
all work, should be the most carefully done. We consider a 
dress well cut and basted as being half made. Use if possi- 
ble thin whale bone, having them shaved thin at the top. 
The modiste should use her greatest skill in making up a defi- 
cient figure. Much padding is often required, and should be 
so arranged as to look perfectly natural and not inconvenience 
the wearer. No dress should go from the hands of a skillful 
dress-maker without an inside belt firmly secured to the back 
seams. This will prevent the waist from becoming twisted 
and working upward from the bottom of the waist. To pre- 
vent the dress from wrinkling over the point of bust, you 
should full the lining slightly on line K. Always cut out the 
darts, and commence at the top of darts in basting. 

The Worth and French dart is especially adapted for 
fleshy persons, as it prevents any fulness around the arm 
scye. French dress-makers use this dart for all figures. It 
cannot be used for an extended garment except where dra- 
pery is used, as it gives too much fulness below the waist. 
To prevent the darts' bulging at top, before placing lining on 
dress goods, draw the top of darts together in the lining, tak- 
out about one-fourth of an inch. 




In cutting a polonaise, which is draped high over the 
hips, join the side body to the front at about five inches from 
bottom of waist, and for a pelisse or wrapper, join at 7 inches 
from bottom of waist. See Diagram F. In drafting for a 
polonaise, to prevent too much fulness in front, lap one side 
of the lining at bottom of the dart over the other side all 
you can, without drawing the upper part of the waist. Use 
plaits in the back. If you wish plaits to come below the waist 
line, cut as for a plain basque, placing the plaits where desired. 

In using the French Tailor System, no scams are al- 
lowed, as we draft from actual measurement, and all seams 
must ee allowed except in neck and arm scye. All using 
this only perfect system of dress-cutting should use in con- 
nection one of our double adjustable tracing wheels, as you 
can trace the seams for cutting and basting at the same time, 
thus giving a uniform width of welts, which in basting is in- 
valuable. 



New diagrams will appear as often as fashion demands. 
In order that all who use the French Tailor System may 
have all possible advantages given with the system, you should 
write us at least once each month, so that we may furnish 
you free with latest diagrams. These should be pasted in 
your instruction book for reference. 




2 5 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOK SYSTEM 





Diagram 17. 





English Walking Jacket. 




Diagram 18. 




Diagram 19. 




Child's Polonaise. 




26 




THE KELLOGG FRENCH TAILOR SYSTEM. 




FOLDING SQUARE MD BIAS RULE. 




PATENTED DECEMBER 25, 1883. 

In adjusting as a Bias Rule or Square, lift the brace out of the holes 
on short arm of square, easily, so as not to spring the brace. Never turn 
the brace unless you wish to adjust as a Square or Bias Rule-. Measure on 
long arms of square the width of bias strips or cloth you wish to cut. 

By placing the inside of short arm of square on front edge of goods, 
you can then mark with pencil or chalk from front edge without moving 
Square. 

We manufacture all manner of Dress-maker's and Tailor's rules and 
measures, such as 6o-inch cloth rules, Tailor's squares, sleeve rules, and 
tape lines. 

Persons wishing to become agents and teach the French Tailor Sys- 
tem, and sell my dress-maker's supplies, will be furnished free with fine 
show cards, signs, circulars, letter heads and envelopes, fashion plates, and 
electro-plates for advertising in newspapers. In writing for particulars re- 
garding the above, be sure to state whether we should address you as Mii 
or Mrs. Always give your full name, P. O. box, town or city, and State. 




The Kellogg Double Adjustable Tracing Wheel. 



This article is indispensible to every dress-maker, for tracing patterns 
or dress linings. In tracing the seams for basting, you also trace the line 
for cutting, thus making all welts of the same width, and the basting less 
troublesome, as by placing any two edges together, the perforations will 
come together. The wheels are so arranged that any reasonable width 
may be obtained. It is handsomely and durably made. The wheels are of 
the best silver steel, and finely tempered. The wheels may be used singly 
or together. When used singly, patterns of any design may be traced from 
the original, thus preserving them for future use. In tracing, lay your 
per or lining on a soft board. 



NOTICE TO DRESSMAKERS. 



Certain parties in the business, evidently jealous of the success of the 
Kellogg French Tailor System of Dress-O iiiv,, arc endeavoring 
to intimidate dress-makers, and prevent them from making use of the sys- 
tem by asserting that the same is not secured by Letters Patent, or is an 
infringement upon some other system. 

ploui this is to flotify all Parties Interested, 

That Mme. Kellogg's System is her own invention, not a copy of any 
other system, and is fully protected by Letters Patent, of the date indi- 
cated on the same, any and all claims to the contrary notwithstanding. All 
customers using the Kellogg System are therefore fully protected, and need 
not be intimidated by the threats of jealous rivals. 





~v©ageHts wanted. (^~ 

Ladies or gentlemen can have employment at home, or a 
chance to travel and introduce the Kelloci, French Tailor 
System and Mine. Kellogg's Dress-maker's and Tailor's sup- 
plies. Exclusive right of territory given to those who desire 
it. In writing for territory, please inclose a two-cent stamp 
for reply. Address all orders to, 

MME. KELLOGG, Battle Creek, Mich. 






EVEl^Y DRESS-JVIAKER SHOUbD HAVE 



T H E)«SH: 



I^elloe|c| Button -Fjole Butter 



BLADES ARE MADE OF BEST SILVER STEEL. 



A Sliding Gauge is arranged for location' accurately each button-hole, measuring the distance 

apart, and giving depth from front edge. Full particulars and 

description furnished upon application. 

A FULL LINE OF LAP-BOARDS AND DRESS- MAKERS' SUPPLIES CONSTANTLY ON HAND. 



>&■ 



ME^^SXJieE^ BOOKS. 

MONG the most useful articles connected with the 
system are the measure books. In their use you can 
keep a correct account of your work and the measure- 
ments of your customers, thus saving time and the trouble 
of again taking their measures. The book contains space 
for one thousand names and measurements. Send for it. 
Trice only 50 cents. 



-$- 



MME. KELLOGG, 

GENERAL AGENT FOR THE UNITED STATES FOR 

"Get QouiunGre." emd "Oca draede @ou\um." 



Finest engravi"gs. Large 



PUBLISHED MONTHLY. 
Largest < iirulation of any fashion Journal in the world. Gives latest Parisian novelties. Unequaled for style and llrish. 
Panoramas of Ladies' and Children's toilets in colors. Grand water-colored plates, all described in English. 

SEND 4=0 CENTS POH JS-A-3VI3F , IjE COPT. 
Subscriptions received and promptly forwarded for any of the great French Fashion Journals, " La France Elegante" 
" La Mode Style," " Le Coquet," " Le Petit Messager des Modes" " Le Caprice," " Le Moniteur de la Mode," etc. Price 
per year from 83.00 to 820.00. 

Also for the leading London Monthly Fashion Journals, " Myria's Journal of Dress and Fashion, 
of Costumes," " Mme. Shield's Journal for I),;*,,- makers," and '-s/iir/d's Magazine of Fashions." Price foi 
scription, from 50 Cents to 82.00. 

For full particulars, address with two-cent stamp, 



; Weldon's Journal 
for one Year's Sub 



MME. KiliOGG. Battle Creek, Michigan, 





IX 





LIERftKY OF CONGRESS 
012 321 862 2 



Hollinger 
pH 8.5 



